May 25

This was another group outing with only Stary not getting out of bed to join us. The intention was to climb one of the remaining local peaks. It was a rock peak and had a narrow looking ridge running up to its summit. The experience so far was that rock routes were generally not so good. They tended to be loose and sometimes contained walls that needed climbing, but you were never too sure if your hand and footholds would stay there long enough to let you pass. The ski to the base was quick, 30 minutes. Then it was a change into big boots and on with harness and hamlets.

Mallory Fjeld. The route went up the obvious ridge in the foreground.

The scrambling towards the summit.

The first part was easy, over a rising boulder field until the ridge narrowed. It became about a table top wide made of flat rock blocks which were easy to walk over. Then the character of the ridge changed. The flat top changed into narrow ridge with broken ledges on either side. The ridge was about a boot width wide and uneven. The ledges had loose rock on, came and went and didn't look too inviting to me. Paul was leading and showing both his fitness, climbing and balance skills. I was next. Walking along the ridge was out for me. If I stand on my right leg for longer than three seconds I fall over. Falling over here was definitely not acceptable. The ledges also did not feel much better. I was not happy that what I was standing on, or that which I was holding onto with my hands for balance, was stable. The rock was really biscuity and brittle. I've climbed on this sort of rock before in the Swiss Alps the summer before I did my ankle. You need to be confident with your balance and be able to redistribute your weight immediately when you feel that one point of contact is not solid.

I scrambled on a little but it did not feel right to me. Some days climbing seems to flow, the balance is there and the world seems good. Other days it seems forced, all moves are awkward and you feel like you have two left feet. Today the world did not seem right somehow so I decided to call it a day. I told the others I was going back and they tried to encourage me on. Scott suggested I join a rope with others but I declined. With that sort of traversing ascent I don't think a rope was too practical. I don't see how it gives extra safety. I seems more like it's 'one falls off, all fall off'. Also unless everyone is paying attention you tend to get slight tugs on the rope which is not what you want when it's your balance that's making you apprehensive in the first place.

I went to Greenland knowing that I had a disadvantage with my ankle and the mental upset you get with a climbing accident. There would be things I could not do, I would be slower etc. I was pleased with what I had achieved so far and so did not mind turning around. It felt the right thing to do and that's what matters, not pushing on to the summit no matter what.

The others went on and got to the summit. I watched them and then went back to the campsite. I had water boiling ready for them when they returned. They said it had not been too bad. The rock was reasonably solid and the way not too hard.

The summit was named Mallory Fjeld, 2030 high.