May 24

A still morning, short sleeved thermal when active! Today we wanted to make a group accent of Punktum, the distant peak which Paul and Stary climbed on the first full day. We knew this would be a long day. Paul and John had taken a long time and they are quite fit. They had taken quite a lot of climbing gear and a pulk which we now knew was not needed. All they could see were cliffs on the horizon. We now knew there was an easy way up around the back. Still it was something like 13km each way with two descents and ascents. Not big ones, but enough so you notice them. Everyone packed light. I took just my ski boots and my crampons this time. One rope in the group but no harnesses. The first 7km was great skiing. It was quite warm, with the physical activity keeping me warm in just a thermal top. Once we past the shelter of the mountains to our North there was a breeze rattling up the glacier. This was cold. Suddenly thermals were replaced with jackets, hats and gloves. All skin was covered with windproof material. My right ear was getting cold in the wind and my left one slowly frazzled in the intense sun. Suntan cream on one side and numb with cold on the other. Hat tipped over to left to keep one side warm and the other side cool. Its a strange how a gentle breeze coming from the opposite side to the sun can make such a difference, but the air is very cold, -10°C to -15°C , so even a gentle breeze has a big cooling effect.

A quick food stop on the glacier

I had no problems with the skiing and was near the front of the group. Then the snow changed type and I went backwards. My skis kept slipping, the wax not gripping properly. I'd tweak my ankle when my right ski suddenly shot backwards rather than stay put as I moved my left one forward. I rewaxed but that had little effect. Frustration set in as nearly everyone else disappeared into the distance. Annoyance with my inability to ski and everyone else finding it OK caused things to get worse; loss of rhythm, and I fell over a few times. Skiing on the flat and I'm falling over! Then the snow changed again. It was now sheltered a little by a rise to the north. The snow was not as compacted by the wind and had a rougher surface. The wax griped and my rhythm returned. Head down, long striding glides and the gap soon diminished. Then the ascent as we gained height and went around the back. The others seem to struggle. Some stopped to put on skins and I left them behind. The others keep going on wax alone. I had fresh wax and a lot of it spread over most of the base. I tackled the slope straight on. I transfered my weight fully from ski to ski with each step up the slope and the skis stuck solid. The others struggle and zigzag and I left them behind. It was all going right for me for a change and only the Norwegian Ski Champion was ahead. The slope became a ridge as the bergshrund entered from the right and the slope down to the glacier got steeper. It was too narrow and steep for me. One false move and it was back down the slope to the glacier, or worse down the bergshrund onto rocks. I stopped and took my skis off. By the time i'd fiddled with the bindings and planted the skis solidly in the snow a couple of the others have caught up and passed. They were now struggling on the steep slope and I walked past them. I suggested boots were better than skis and they agreed. I walked on and around the back of the mountain to where the Norwegian was waiting. He had skied it all and was now sitting on a rock by the beginning of a shallow gully which looked to lead to the summit.

Walking up to him I saw a faint crack line. Nothing obvious, just perforations in the snow as if two giant stamps formed the surface. The holes were small, half an inch wide and in a line across the slope. A crevasse, I thought, and poked around with my ski pole. Yes, not a big one, just three inches wide once I broke away the snow forming the bridge. I cleared it for a couple of feet to make it obvious and then took a big step over. When I reached Petter he commented on the cravasse. He had seen it while skiing up as well. I had shouted down to those that followed telling them it was there, even though it was now obvious if you followed my tracks.

The gully did lead straight to the top and was mostly easy walking. In a couple of places the snow turned hard and even to ice and crampon points had to be kicked in but otherwise the ascent was easy. Punktum is 2175m height, three hundred metres higher than the campsite, but because of the two descents and ascents to get there it feels a lot higher.

The summit turned out to be a big flat plateau with coarse granite slabs forming the floor. It was a beautiful vantage point. The Dronning Louise Land lay spread out before us to one side and the bleak endless icecap to the other. All the summits we had climbed so far were visible and we could see the other groups of mountains which formed the area, which we would have explored had time permitted. The photos I took don't do it justice, they look grey and dull. I had my black and white film in and it's not been exposed or developed properly. Even so I doubt a colour film would do much better. They don't show the many different shades of white in the snow and ice, the many earthy red colours of the granite and the dark blue of the sky like you only get in the Alpine mountains. I'd love to see Alan's photos from his medium format camera. That may have reproduced the sight more like it was.

The summit of Punktum with Alan and Scott.

Glen looking out to the Ice Cap and remembering his trip right across it to the other side of Greenland

The Dronning Louise Land. By the end of the trip we climbed most of the summits seen here.

The way back seemed longer than the way out. The ski back down to the glacier was fun but rather steep given the uneven snow with banks that had to be avoided. Once onto the flat it was a long plod back to the camp site. The snow went through it's bad patch again but at least I knew it was not going to last too long. Gordon slowly plodded on behind. He is quite amazing for his age. He said not to worry about him, he would be in camp in about three to four hours and there was no need to wait for him. He would be fine. It's great he has so much confidence in his ability to get there eventually and he is happy to be left behind. Even so I was not so much faster than him so kept looking back to make sure he was OK. During the bad patch of snow he nearly caught me up on his skis more suited to the condition. In the end he was about 15 minutes behind when I reached camp.

It was a long day of skiing but worth it to climb such a prominent peak in such a good place to see all the mountains which make up the area. The day had also been one of great contrasts. Setting off in the morning it had been still and warm. Then we moved into the wind and the temperature plummeted and you really knew you were in the arctic. There had been great emotional swings thoughout the day. First things were going well and the distant mountain looked to be getting closer. Then the skiing went all to pot and despondancy set in. Life was hard and that distant mountain did not look to be getting closer. Then it would all change around again, skis worked, despondancy turned to a warm glow as the backs of the others came closer and were then passed as I skied with ease up the slopes whilst the others struggled. Then the trudge up the gully brought back memories of similar times in Scotland before the accident that had smashed my ankle. Then I had been fit and would have walked up to the summit with ease. That is now gone for good and I have to huff and puff my way up at a slow pace. The summit replaced past memories of better times with a sence of achievement. I can still do it, it just takes more effort and some pain, and that makes the wonderful sights from the summit worth even more. The lonely time of skiing an a world of your own is replaced with camaradery, sat on the top eating lunch as a group. The hesitant ski descent gives a peek into the possibilities and joy that could be found if I spent time to learn to ski properly. Then the long trudge back to camp brings out the fatherly feeling, keeping an eye on Gordon behind, even if he is twice my age!